Device for shirring lining, reinforcement or stiffener for garments



Apnl 7, 1964 F. PAGANO 3,128,020

DEVICE FOR SHIRRING LINING, REINFORCEMENT 0R STIFFENER FOR GARMENTS Filed June 30, 1960 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 VI BACW FIG 4 INVENTOR.

Frank Pogono BY Maxwell E .Sparrow ATTORNEY.

Apr1l 7, 1964 F. PAGANO 3, ,020

DEVICE FOR SHIRRING LINING, REINFORCEMENT 0R STIF'FENER FOR GARMENTS Filed June 50, 1960 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 H G .7 I INVENTOR.

Frank Pagono BY Maxwell E.Sporrow ATLT'ORNEY- April 7, 1964 F. PAGANO 3,128,020

DEVICE FOR SHIRRING LINING, REINFORCEMENT OR State Unite This invention relates to the production of shirred reinforcements, stitfeners or canvas linings, and to such linings which are used in coats, jackets and the like.

At the present time it is necessary to gather or pleat in accordion fashion the properly cut piece of canvas to be used as a stiffening lining, a process which is also called shirring, to stitch the shirred canvas piece down temporarily and to attach it to the garment. After the garment piece has been assembled the temporary stitches are pulled out of the lining, thus providing for more material in the canvas to take up the difference in stretching when the garment piece is pressed, because there is a sizeable difference in the stretchability between the canvas lining and the cloth of the garment piece. If such provision would not be made, the cloth material invariably would pucker or buckle because the canvas lining only stretches very little. Obviously the areas where such stretching is necessary are in the front of the garment piece and in the upper portion adjacent the shoulder part. However, in the latter area a gathering or shirring of the canvas is necessary in a direction approximately at a right angle of the front part on account of the curvature of the shoulder part which is differentfrorn the body part. The proper preparation of such canvas linings is timeconsuming and requires costly skilled hand labor.

Thus, if a canvas of the same size were sewed into the garment under the top cloth, then when the garment is pressed, it will be found that the cloth material will pucker at the front of the garment, as well as the front upper portion adjacent the shoulder, because of the different stretchabilities of the canvas and the cloth.

As generally heretofore stated, in order to overcome this puckering, the conventional method is to accordion pleat or gather into folds the canvas, stitching down temporarily prior to its being attached to the cloth. After the garment is assembled, the stitches are removed from the folds of the canvas, thus giving more material in the canvas to take up the possible stretching of the outer cloth, when the garment is pressed.

A purpose of the invention is to provide corrugated male and female molds and place the canvas between the molds, subjecting the same to pressure and steam whereby the canvas will take on the corrugations of the molds. The canvas in its corrugated state is then sewed to the cloth and the corrugations will allow the canvas to provide the increase of canvas material necessary to make a smooth garment. After the garment is assembled and pressed, the pressing will undo some or all of the corrugations and provide this additional materal to prevent tautness of the cloth which would otherwise produce the puckering of the cloth material.

It is intended by this invention to provide for a device for mechanizing this procdure, thus eliminating the handshirring and stitching, and to provide for an improved product. The invention consists in such novel features, arrangements and combinations of parts as may be shown and described in connection with the apparatus herein disclosed by way of example only and as illustrative of a preferred embodiment. Objects and advantages of the invention will be set forth in part hereafter and in part will be obvious herefrom or may be learned by practicing the invention, the same being realized and attained by means of the instrumentalities and combinations pointed out in the appended claims.

3,128,020 Patented Apr. 7, 1964 ice It is another purpose or object of the present invention to provide for means to impress temporary corrugations or folds in pieces of canvas lining; another purpose or object being to arrange said corrugations or folds in groups which are not parallel to one another.

Furthermore, it is an object of the present invention to provide for a simple and sturdy corrugating device for the aforementioned purpose which can be operated easily and without special skill.

Yet another object is to provide for a new and improved device which is simple, efiicient, durable and uncorinplicated and which can be manufactured economical y.

A still further object of the present invention is to provide as a new article of manufacture a canvas lining having shirrs, corrugations or folds therein which may be eliminated in whole or in part during a pressing operation of the garment to which the lining is applied; a further object being to arrange such shirrs, corrugations or folds in groups wherein the shirrs, corrugations or folds of each group are parallelly disposed with relation to each other and the groups are arranged angularly with respect to each other.

Various further and more specific purposes, features and advantages will clearly appear from the detailed description given below taken in connection with the accompanying drawings which form part of this specification and illustrate merely by way of example one embodiment of the device of the invention.

in the following description and in the claims, parts will be identified by specific names for convenience, but such names are intended to be as generic in their application to similar parts as the art will permit. Like reference characters denote like parts in the several figures of the drawings.

FIG. 1 shows one of the platens according to the invention;

FIG. 2 is a cross-section of the platen shown in FIG. 1, taken along the line 2-2;

FIG. 3 is a longitudinal section of the platen shown in FIG. 1, taken along the line 33;

FIG. 4 is a perspective view of a complete device (in the open position) carrying a mating pair of said platens;

FIG. 5 is a side view of a modification of the platen shown in FIG. 1;

FIG. 6 is a front view of the corrugations formed in the modified form of FIG. 5;

FIG. 7 is a detail face view of a corner of a platen having additional corrugations;

FIG. 8 shows a cut and partly doubled piece of canvas lining or stiffener before shirring;

FIG. 9 shows the piece of lining depicted in FIG. 8 after being shirred on the body and the shoulder portions by the device;

FIG. 10 shows the piece of lining after shirring with a platen according to FIG. 7, having an additional portion shirred around an area provided for a later formed pocket of a garment to which the lining will be applied;

FIG. 11 shows a cross section, partly broken away, along the line 11-11, of the doubled canvas lining.

Referring now in more detail to the drawings which includes a preferred embodiment by which the invention may be realized, there is shown in FIG. 1 a fiat, forming or molding platen 11 which may consist of aluminum, or any suitable light metal, or of stainless steel, and which is shaped and of a size to accommodate a canvas lining or the like which is used in the suit and coat making industry. At one portion of platen 11 there is provided a group or series of shallow ribs 12 having well'rounded edges forming corrugations, running across the platen 11, and at another portion of platen 11 there is provided a series or group of similar shallow ribs 13 forming corrugations, spaced apart from the series of ribs 12 but running approximately at a right angle thereto. The group or series of ribs 13 is located in the area of the platen 11 where a cut-out 1 determines the shoulder portion of the garment canvas lining, said ribs 13 being substantially in alignment with cut-out 14.

Two platens 11 and 11' are used, one being the mirrorlike counterpart of the other, the ribs 12 and 13 of the respective platens being offset, that is, arranged in such a manner that the ridges of one group of a platen fit into the grooves of the corresponding group of the other platen. As illustrated in FIG. 4, the platens 11 and 11 may be mounted on a box-like device 16 having a lid 17 in which case the platen 11' is mounted on the box 16 and the counter-platen 11 is mounted on the inner side of the lid 17 which has arms 18 hingedly attached to the box 16. The lid 17 can be lifted and closed by a handle 19. The platens 11 and 11' are heated by steam, by electricity, or by any other suitable means, said heating facilities not being shown.

FIGS. and 6 show a modification of the platen 11 or 11' in that the ribs 21 which run across the platen are higher on the side 21' than on the other side 21". The purpose of this difference in height is to get a variation of the compression of the canvas or stiffener in different parts of same. This, in turn, is necessary to conform to the three-dimensional differences of the human body for which the garment and the lining thereof is to be made.

In the modified platen shown in FIG. 7 there is formed at an end portion of the platen and continuous with the group of ribs 12 a series of short ribs 22 for a reason hereinafter explained.

FIG. 8 shows a conventional cut and multiple piece of canvas reinforcement or stiffener 23 prepared for being shirred by the device shown in FIG. 4. FIG 9 shows the canvas lining 23 after being treated in the device, and it can be seen how the ribs of the platen have corrugated or shirred temporarily the canvas under the influence of heat and pressure, at the body portion indicated at 24, and at the shoulder portion indicated at 25, at which portions the canvas now can unfold freely when in the garment and the latter is being pressed for assuming its finished shape. FIG. shows a can vas lining 26 for a jacket, coat or the like, wherein provision is being made for reinforcing a pocket by the additional short corrugations 27 which obviously do not run across the canvas. FIG. 7 shows the platen having the necessary additional ribs for accomplishing this. FIG. 11 is a cross-section of the doubled and corrugated portion of the canvas lining 23 or 26.

From the drawings and from the description it becomes evident how simple and time-saving the operation of preparing a ready shirred canvas lining is made by using the device of the invention. The conventionally prepared canvas portion is placed over the lower platen 11' so that its contour conforms with the shape of said platen (see FIG. 4). When the lid is lowered and closed, the presusre and the supplied heat produce the necessary temporary corrugations, which will disappear when the garment, to which the lining has been attached, is finally pressed.

While the invention has been described and illustrated with respect to certain particular preferred examples which give satisfactory results, it will be understood by those skilled in the art after understanding the principle of the invention, that various other changes and modifications may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention and it is intended therefore in the appended claims to cover all such changes and modifications.

I claim:

1. In a device for forming temporary shirrs or corrugations in garment reinforcing linings, a pair of mating platens, each of said platens having formed therein a first plurality of corrugations which run in a direction across the platen at one portion thereof and a second plurality of corrugations which run in a direction at an angle with resepct to the corrugations of said first plurality of corrugations, said angle being approximately a right angle, said corrugations of one of said pair of rnating platens being offset with respect to the corrugations of the other one of said pair of mating platens, means to which said platens are attached for a mating operation with the lining to be shirred or corrugated interposed therebetween, said second plurality of corrugations being disposed between opposite sides of each of said platens and being spaced from said first plurality of corrugations, at least one of said platens having a side cut-out in substantial alignment with said second plurality of corrugations, said second plurality of corrugations being spaced from said cut-out, the ridges of the corrugations of said first plurality of corrugations slanting downwardly from the side of the platen having said side cut-out towards the opposite side thereof.

2. In a device for forming temporary shirrs or corrugations in garment reinforcing linings, a pair of mating platens, each of said platens having formed therein a first plurality of corrugations which run in a direction across the platen at one portion thereof and a second plurality of corrugations which run in a direction at an angle with respect to the corrugations of said first plurality of corrugations, said angle being approximately a right angle, said corrugations of one of said pair of mating platens being offset with respect to the corrugations of the other one of said pair of mating platens, means to which said platens are attached for a mating operation with the lining to be shirred or corrugated interposed therebetween, the ridges of the corrugations of said first plurality of corrugations slanting from one side of each of said platens to the opposite side thereof.

3. In a device for forming temporary shirrs or corrugations in a garment reinforcing lining, a plate having formed therein a first group of corrugations which run in a direction across the plate at one portion thereof and a second group of corrugations which run in a direction at an angle with respect to the corrugations of said first plurality of corrugations, said angle being approximately a right angle, said second group of corrugations being disposed intermediate opposite sides of the plate, said plate having a side cut-out in substantial alignment with said second group of corrugations, the ridges of the corrugations of said first group of corrugations slanting downward from the side of the plate having said side cut-out towards the opposite side thereof.

4. In a device for forming temporary shirrs or corrugations in a garment reinforcing lining, a plate having formed therein a first group of corrugations which run in a direction across the plate at one portion thereof and a second group of corrugations which run in a direction at an angle with respect to the corrugations of said first plurality of corrugations, said angle being approximately a right angle, said second group of corrugations being disposed intermediate opposite sides of the plate, the ridges of the corrugations of said first group of corrugations slanting from one side of said plate to the opposite side thereof.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 215,103 Boon May 6, 1879 664,722 Castleman Dec. 25, 1900 788,081 Wolkau Apr. 25, 1905 907,081 Mitchell et a1. Dec. 15, 1908 2,171,356 Plorea Aug. 29, 1939 2,255,823 Silverstein Sept. 16, 1941 2,275,090 Reiss et \al. Mar. 3, 1942 2,608,322 Hansen et al Aug. 26, 1952 2,924,361 Nirenberg Feb. 9, 1960 

1. IN A DEVICE FOR FORMING TEMPORARY SHIRRS OR CORRUGATIONS IN GARMENT REINFORCING LININGS, A PAIR OF MATING PLATENS, EACH OF SAID PLATENS HAVING FORMED THEREIN A FIRST PLURALITY OF CORRUGATIONS WHICH RUN IN A DIRECTION ACROSS THE PLATEN AT ONE PORTION THEREOF AND A SECOND PLURALITY OF CORRUGATIONS WHICH RUN IN A DIRECTION AT AN ANGLE WITH RESPECT TO THE CORRUGATIONS OF SAID FIRST PLURALITY OF CORRUGATIONS, SAID ANGLE BEING APPROXIMATELY A RIGHT ANGLE, SAID CORRUGATIONS OF ONE OF SAID PAIR OF MATING PLATENS BEING OFFSET WITH RESPECT TO THE CORRUGATIONS OF THE OTHER ONE OF SAID PAIR OF MATING PLATENS, MEANS TO WHICH SAID PLATENS ARE ATTACHED FOR A MATING OPERATION WITH THE LINING TO BE SHIRRED OR CORRUGATED INTERPOSED THEREBETWEEN, SAID SECOND PLURALITY OF CORRUGATIONS BEING DISPOSED BETWEEN OPPOSITE SIDES OF EACH OF SAID PLATENS AND BEING SPACED FROM SAID FIRST PLURALITY OF CORRUGATIONS, AT LEAST ONE OF SAID PLATENS HAVING A SIDE CUT-OUT IN SUBSTANTIAL ALIGNMENT WITH SAID SECOND PLURALITY OF CORRUGATIONS, SAID SECOND PLURALITY OF CORRUGATIONS BEING SPACED FROM SAID CUT-OUT, THE RIDGES OF THE CORRUGATIONS OF SAID FIRST PLURALITY OF CORRUGATIONS SLANTING DOWNWARDLY FROM THE SIDE OF THE PLATEN HAVING SAID SIDE CUT-OUT TOWARDS THE OPPOSITE SIDE THEREOF. 